Experimental verification of numerical model for nonlinear wave evolutions

It is known that relatively long waves passing over a submerged bar decompose into shorter components. The power spectra measured in front of and behind such barred topographical regions differ appreciably because the latter spectrum contains significant energy over a broad range in the high-frequency band (Ohyama and Nadaoka 1992; Beji and Battjes 1993). These waveform evolutions result from shoaling over the upslope and near-resonant wave-wave interactions over the bar, which transfers energy to higher harmonics. Under such circumstances nonlinear effects may significantly affect the wave evolution.