@inproceedings{59fda7e3f8c943f2841377d067e79ab5,
title = "Breaking waves propagating over a shoal",
abstract = "Spectral evolution of breaking and nearly breaking waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar has been investigated in laboratory experiments. It is found that wave breaking itself does not play a crucial role in the evolution of the spectral shape, but contributes simply by extracting energy roughly in proportion to the local spectral density. For nonbreaking waves, a Boussinesq model with improved dispersion characteristics is found to simulate the wave evolution very well. On the basis of these findings, it is suggested to combine a semi-empirical model for the overall energy dissipation with a nondissipative Boussinesq model so as to obtain a model for simulation of spectral evolution of breaking waves.",
author = "Battjes, \{J. A.\} and S. Beji",
year = "1993",
doi = "10.1061/9780872629332.003",
language = "English",
isbn = "0872629333",
series = "Proceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference",
publisher = "Publ by ASCE",
pages = "42--50",
booktitle = "Proceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference",
note = "Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering ; Conference date: 04-10-1992 Through 09-10-1992",
}