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A spectral model for unidirectional nonlinear wave propagation over arbitrary depths

  • S. Beji
  • , K. Nadaoka*
  • *Bu çalışma için yazışmadan sorumlu yazar
  • Tokyo Inst. Technol., 2-12-1 O.

Araştırma sonucu: Dergiye katkıMakalebilirkişi

13 Atıf (Scopus)

Özet

A weakly-nonlinear and dispersive wave equation recently developed by the authors is used for formulating a spectral-type unidirectional wave propagation model describing spectral transformations of narrow-band waves travelling over arbitrary depths. The essential characteristics of the model equation are recapitulated first and then the spectral domain representation in terms of spatially varying harmonic amplitudes is presented. The resulting evolution equations are used to simulate the experiments concerning harmonic generation in shallow water and nonlinear random wave transformations over a submerged bar. Furthermore, the spectral model predictions are compared with the field measurements in nearshore with satisfactory results.

Orijinal dilİngilizce
Sayfa (başlangıç-bitiş)1-16
Sayfa sayısı16
DergiCoastal Engineering
Hacim36
Basın numarası1
DOI'lar
Yayın durumuYayınlandı - Şub 1999

Finansman

This work was carried out while the first author was at Tokyo Institute of Technology through a grant from T.I.T. The authors would like to thank Dr. K. Katoh and Mr. S. Nakamura for providing the field data, and a graduate student O. Ono for helping with the field data and the figures.

Finansörler
Tokyo Institute of Technology

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