Abstract
A spectral model is formulated for the simulation of breaking and non-breaking unidirectional waves propagating over arbitrary depths. The evolution equations corresponding to the conservative wave model of Beji and Nadoka (1997a) are given first and then an empirical generalization of Battjes's (1986) energy dissipation model for breaking waves is introduced. The generalized dissipation terms are embedded into the conservative evolution equations so as to make the spectral model capable of simulating wave height decay due to breaking. The evolution equations with the breaking terms are then used to reproduce Horikawa and Kuo's (1966) and Beji and Battjes's (1993) laboratory measurements of breaking waves as well as the field measurements of Nakamura and Katoh (1992) in the surf zone. Despite the crude approximations involved in the formulation of the breaking dissipation, the comparisons show rather good agreements.
| Original language | English |
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| Pages | 285-294 |
| Number of pages | 10 |
| Publication status | Published - 1997 |
| Event | Proceedings of the 1997 Coastal Dynamics Conference - Plymouth, UK Duration: 1 Jun 1997 → 1 Jun 1997 |
Conference
| Conference | Proceedings of the 1997 Coastal Dynamics Conference |
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| City | Plymouth, UK |
| Period | 1/06/97 → 1/06/97 |