TY - JOUR
T1 - A time-dependent nonlinear mild-slope equation for water waves
AU - Beji, S.
AU - Nadaoka, K.
PY - 1997
Y1 - 1997
N2 - A weakly nonlinear and dispersive water wave equation, which in linearized form yields a new version of the time-dependent mild-slope equation of Smith & Sprinks (1975), is derived. The applicable spectral width of the new wave equation for random waves is found to be more satisfactory than that of Smith and Sprinks (1975). For very shallow depths the equation reduces to the combined form of Airy's nonlinear non-dispersive wave equations; if the lowest-order dispersion is retained it produces the combined form of Boussinesq's equations. In the deep-water limit the equation admits the second-order Stokes waves as analytical solutions. Furthermore, by introducing a right-moving coordinate transformation, the equation is recast into a unidirectional form, rendering the KdV equation in one limit while reproducing the second-order Stokes waves in the other.
AB - A weakly nonlinear and dispersive water wave equation, which in linearized form yields a new version of the time-dependent mild-slope equation of Smith & Sprinks (1975), is derived. The applicable spectral width of the new wave equation for random waves is found to be more satisfactory than that of Smith and Sprinks (1975). For very shallow depths the equation reduces to the combined form of Airy's nonlinear non-dispersive wave equations; if the lowest-order dispersion is retained it produces the combined form of Boussinesq's equations. In the deep-water limit the equation admits the second-order Stokes waves as analytical solutions. Furthermore, by introducing a right-moving coordinate transformation, the equation is recast into a unidirectional form, rendering the KdV equation in one limit while reproducing the second-order Stokes waves in the other.
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=0030965930&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1098/rspa.1997.0018
DO - 10.1098/rspa.1997.0018
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:0030965930
SN - 1364-5021
VL - 453
SP - 319
EP - 332
JO - Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences
JF - Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences
IS - 1957
ER -