Abstract
A weakly-nonlinear and dispersive wave equation recently developed by the authors is used for formulating a spectral-type unidirectional wave propagation model describing spectral transformations of narrow-band waves travelling over arbitrary depths. The essential characteristics of the model equation are recapitulated first and then the spectral domain representation in terms of spatially varying harmonic amplitudes is presented. The resulting evolution equations are used to simulate the experiments concerning harmonic generation in shallow water and nonlinear random wave transformations over a submerged bar. Furthermore, the spectral model predictions are compared with the field measurements in nearshore with satisfactory results.
| Original language | English |
|---|---|
| Pages (from-to) | 1-16 |
| Number of pages | 16 |
| Journal | Coastal Engineering |
| Volume | 36 |
| Issue number | 1 |
| DOIs | |
| Publication status | Published - Feb 1999 |
Funding
This work was carried out while the first author was at Tokyo Institute of Technology through a grant from T.I.T. The authors would like to thank Dr. K. Katoh and Mr. S. Nakamura for providing the field data, and a graduate student O. Ono for helping with the field data and the figures.
| Funders | Funder number |
|---|---|
| Tokyo Institute of Technology |
Keywords
- Deep water waves
- Harmonic generation
- Nonlinear random waves
- Shallow water waves
- Spectral model
- Spectral transformations