A formal derivation and numerical modelling of the improved boussinesq equations for varying depth

S. Beji*, K. Nadaoka

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

175 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

A formal derivation of the improved Boussinesq equations of Madsen and Sørensen (1992) is presented to provide the correct forms of the depth-gradient related terms. Linear shoaling characteristics of the new equations are investigated by the method of Madsen and Sørensen (1992) and by the energy flux concept separately and found to agree perfectly, whereas these approaches give conflicting results for the equations derived by Madsen and Sørensen (1992). Furthermore, Nwogu's (1993) modified Boussinesq model is found to produce a linear shoaling-gradient identical with the present work. Numerical modelling of the derived equations for directional waves is carried out by three-time-level finite-difference approximations. A higher-order radiation condition is implemented for effective absorption of the outgoing waves. Several test cases are included to demonstrate the performance of the model.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)691-704
Number of pages14
JournalOcean Engineering
Volume23
Issue number8
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - Nov 1996

Funding

Acknowledgemenrs-This work was carried out while the first author was at T.I.T. through a grant from the Kajima Foundation of Japan and subsequently from T.I.T. The authors would like to thank Mrs. E. Tsukamoto for typing the manuscript and a graduate student 0. Ohno for helping with the figures.

FundersFunder number
Kajima Foundation of Japan

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